3D Printer Cooler – 5 Reasons to start using it
1 – Prints without support with a 3d printer cooler
They will print incredibly better with A 3d printer cooler, specially the long ones. check the image comparing
2 – Small perimeters
No cooling | inefficient cooling | Perfect cooling
you can download this test by clicking here: Download
3 – Print with higher temperatures
Why in the hell would i print it overheated? simple!, better layer adhesion! this can improve the strength of the printed part – you can download this test by clicking here: Download
4 – Printing small details easier
A print like this without proper cooling would be incredibly hard
5 – Higher angles without using support
These days i had to print this thing, it would use an insane amount of support and it would still be ineffective, the solution? force a great cooling while using a hotter extrusion. it would become instantaneously hard and would be still in the place.
TIPS TO SETTING UP YOU COOLING SYSTEM
ABS + Cooler : Friends or Enemies?
If correctly calibrated, they can be best friends and improve a lot the printing! (especially bridges and solid infill),
But be aware! if there is too much wind, the cold air can bend / warp / crack / destroy your pieces. this is certain to happen if you let your cooler to 100%, you should start trying with 20%, and go 10% each test.
Also using a circular cooler WILL help.
This is an option also if you need to increase the temperature of the nozzle to make a better layer adhesion, but don’t want to have overheating issues
PLA + Cooler = Super hyper power mega […] friends!
In every case you should use cooling!. if you use PLA, and don’t use a proper cooling, you will get some awful results. like this (duo overheating on a small perimeter)
In this picture, for example, the left piece did not used a cooling fan, so it overheated, in the right piece it was used (source: T-Machine.org – material PLA).
Circular or direct fan duct for your 3d printer cooler?
The best one, in almost every case is the circular!, why? simple, there is a 360º (full) range of air coming to your print, against a small range from a direct duct. (be aware that there are some designs who aren’t design with the proper aerodynamic, and although it will work, the air wont be distributed perfectly, some places could still be overheated).
I use this cooler, for E3D Allmetal hotend V6. with a small adapter to work with my extruder original cooler support.
Also recommend it because of the airflow provided and the aerodynamics (you can download it here you can download this test by clicking here: Download
(I’ve tested them all, on a 29ºC room with 26% humidity, 200ºC/60ºC for PLA and 220ºC/100ºC for ABS)
Good luck, and have a nice printing! see you in the next tutorial
What about the 3D Printer Spools? Empty Spools and MasterSpool Standards
I’ve been meaning to fit a cooler onto my 3D printer, after reading this I really want to fit one now!I Just need to find a model that will fit my extruder
I’ve been looking at something to extend the fan for my lulzbot, I’m too cheap to buy a new fan.
This is a great article. I have learned over the years all electronics work better when they are cool.
Really cool. Is there some article on 3D printing in Air Conditioning (cold) vs in heat? Some 3D printers have heated chambers so im wondering weather to use that or not.
How do I use a cooler with a 3d printer?
What do you mean by “circular and/or direct”? Is the circular the small block fans? and is the “direct” the tubes that aim the air straight to the plastic coming out of the nozzle?